Theamsak Leesombutwa
Once known as the site of a U.S. military base during the Vietnam War and today famed for its repository of Bronze Age artifacts, Udon Thani at first appears to be a sleepy hamlet of old-timey shophouse restaurants, Vietnamese food vendors, and open-air markets. But Thai food lovers know Udon Thani as the nexus for a nascent food movement championing seasonal ingredients from Thailand’s northeastern Isan region.
Once derided as a cultural backwater, Isan…
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